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Jim,
I compared the two parts manuals for the -1 and A and yes they are the same. The plunger, spring, and plug are the same part #s on both engines. I would hope to find some info in the rebuild manual about wear tolerances on the plunger, but have not yet. I will swap them this week and fly again when weather permits.
The long stem cooking thermometer worked great. I found one with 15 inch probe and sliding attachment. I put it down to the same depth as the dipstick and it ran up to 190 PDQ and that’s what was on the temp gauge on the panel.
John
OK, latest update on the overheating. Did first flight after replacing vernatherm Saturday. Within 30 minutes it was over 100C. After saying some choice words, I landed and did what Jim suggested and stuck long stem thermometer in the dipstick hole to confirm the temp on the dial was correct. It was. This afternoon I pulled the bypass valve underneath the sump and inspected and cleaned it. There were no washers and it didn’t appear to be dirty. It did appear to be polished more on one side than the other and there was some slight pitting in the top surface, not the sides that are in the plug. If that makes sense. I worked and and spun it in its housing and reinstalled. I then flew for over and hour and the temp moved back and forth between 85 and 88c. I believe I have a sticking bypass valve. I have another O435-1 and a O435-A. I have not checked the part numbers yet but if the A is the same, I will pull it and try it this week. If not I will pull the one from my spare -1. I’ve got to get where I can go places instead of circles near the airport.
New vernatherm installed late today. Now it’s time to wash down and runup for leak check and prepare to fly.
Just an FYI for others who may have vernatherm issues in the future. The “baffle” type that was in my cooler was considered unairworthy years ago according to Brian at R & E Oil Coolers. He found a replacement for me, but I will have to cut a hole in the mounting bracket as the picture from Sam shows on his.
Wes,
On my L5, the gps antenna is mounted inside on the platform for the antenna reel. The comm and transponder antennas are underneath between the gear and the ELT is on top behind the rear cockpit near the marker light.
John
The above picture is the vernatherm from my oil cooler. It is not sealing properly, you can see the scuff mark on the top where it is missing the port. Sending it to R & E coolers for Brian to repair or replace.
Sam and Jim,
Thanks for the input. I did not understand the valve on the cooler but it looks like a good start. I will call Monday to see who can inspect to see if that is the problem. I will also check to see if there are washers under the spring of pressure relief plunger. I thought maybe that was how you adjusted the oil pressure.
John
This is a come and go issue. The oil pressure runs 70# at cruise, all the screens are and have been clean. We just changed oil and replace 1 and 3 cylinders. In the first flight, the oil temp went to 95C and the second flight was similar. The third flight went to 105C in about 30 minutes. I allowed it to cool and flew again and it returned to 105C. Today I flew early for a little over and hour and it went to 89C. Later in the afternoon OAT 83F I flew again for a little over and hour and it went to 92C. It was doing this before the cylinder change, not often, but enough to make me nervous on a cross country flight. Reading the O-435-1 rebuild manual and looking at the parts book, it appears there is a spring and plunger on the bottom of the sump by the oil filter line. I’m guessing the plunger is sticking and not allowing oil to the cooler. I have noticed that when the temp is high and I pull power to land, the oil pressure is bouncing more than usual. It has always had a wavering needle on landing, but is more pronounced when it also has high temp. Thinking about pulling the plunger on my shelf engine to see what it all looks like.
John
FYI check http://www.steinertractor.com and search for fastener. They have a long and short same as on the L5. I bought 1 of each and the long appears to be the better match. I’ve not installed it yet. I used Dremmel tool to clean the notch on a couple and it helped, but I’m prepared to try the Steiner fastener.
Thanks Sam, He is going to put them on the pallet with the engine and I will send him payment after I’ve seen them. Don’t need them, but like everthing else, spares are nice when you need them. I’m still grounded, got the cylinders back from chrome, then the valve seats were wrong, now it appears to be moving again. Chris ordered different seats and should have my cylinders done this coming week. Been down over 3 months now. I’m sending him 4 more cylinders to build up with the new pistons I found. I will have spares on the shelf next time. Thanks again.
The saga continues. Got valve seats but they are smaller than the ones installed. I see in the parts manual there are 2 different part numbers for both intake and exhaust seats. Is the difference the outer diameter? The new seats are 2.086 and the old are 2.090. One part # is for the -1 and the other is for the -11. Any guidance or source would be appreciated.
John
Guys, it seems never ending. Finally got the cylinders back to the rebuild shop from the chroming. Covid has put everyone behind schedule. Now the rebuild shop is looking to replace the valve seats. Is there a crossover part number for the O-435-1 valve seat? I would think it would be a common part for other engines, but that would be too simple. Any help to get me back in the air would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John
