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Hilly: Something that will help you immensely on chasing applicable drawings is to pull the part number from the IPB, then apply the effectivity markings and then go to the drawings.
A quick and easy example;
Go to the page on lift struts in the IPB. If you look at the first set of entries, you will find three part numbers there for the A model. 76-10001-0, 76-10001-1 and 76-10060. Looking to the left of the part number, you will see that there is a cross symbol on all three part numbers and a 2 in front of the cross on 76-10060. Down at the bottom of the page, there is a list of the cross and the number 2, showing what aircraft that part number is effective for. In the case of s/n’s 42-14798 thru 42-99160, the 76-10001 series parts were the original install, and the 76-10060 was used on 42-99160 and on. As the cross is applied to the 76-10060, in means that should one need to replace a lift strut on the early model, the later version of the strut is an acceptable direct replacement.
Where things get complicated, is when there are multiple part numbers and installations and optional configurations. I’ve had some drawings at work, that have as many as 100 effectivity flags to show what airplane gets that particular configuration…..
A friend that works for a different aerospace company from me, came up with a copy of the AN3152 battery. Holy smackers it’s small for what all it powers. Basically it’s 5″x 9″x 11″ tall.
Geoff: When you get to the crystal holder, you will need to decide if you are going to drill for stateside crystals or for those used overseas. Overseas, they switched to the FT-243 style crystals, which are much smaller than the AVA-10 or AVA-53 housings. The AVA’s are also much heavier than the FT-243’s. I’ve got almost a complete set of AVA’s for my airplane, to fill the holder and they weigh about a half pound each. The FT’s are much easier to find and probably weigh about 2 ounces each.
From what I’ve been able to find, the aircraft left the factory with the AVA series crystals, but they were removed and FT-243’s were used once the aircraft got overseas.
If you want to just have fillers for the AVA-10/53’s, I can give you most of the dimensions, other than a couple of radii, and you could 3d print a set and drill for your own banana plugs.
Craig
Geoff: Yep, that’s me. I also added the question over on WIX as well. Jim mentioned Taylor doing one for his G model, but the G’s used a completely different sized battery than all the others.
Did a little cracking of the books this morning and discovered that the AN3152 battery was also used in the OA-10 Catalina. The 3152 is apparently steel cased, with a gasketed lid and provisions for vapor venting and drainage. Electrical terminals are also cased, so no box needed. I think I found a source for the spec, but will have to try tomorrow on gaining access.
Craig
Geoff: I ran thru the IPB and it appears that there never was a battery box for the L-5. It shows that the battery was held in place by the tabs around the shelf it sat on, combined with a cross bar type hold down.
Matt: Actually looking for the drawing for the Drop bags. A friend has found the drawing for the later and larger version and is going to send a copy. He’s going to see if he can find the drawings for the smaller A-1 as well.
Matt: In your quest for furnishings, would you happen to have run across a copy of the message bag drawing? I managed to find a bag recently, but would like to have several more for my project. I can work up a drawing to make some, but thought I’d put the question out here and a couple other boards before I sat down and started on one.
Jim: If you have some time, can you carefully unbraid it and make a count of the total number of threads? I’m trying to determine if it’s 16 , 24, 32 or 64 threads.
Craig
Jim: Until you jump to really huge wires, it’s pretty much the same. Diameter can vary as what is known as the “pick” angle can be between about 35 degrees and 65 degrees. What this means is that the threads cross between those angles. I need to determine if the machine needs to have 16, 24, 32 or 64 bobbins to make the braid.
Looking at adding the capability to the shop to overbraid modern wire for restorations. Also thinking about having laser wire marking capability too. If it happens, a client would send a list of wires, wire numbers, lengths, gauge and braid or no braid. I’d then mark the wires, cut to length and then overbraid. Kind of a real niche in restorations, but would be a decent service I think, if available. It would look period correct, but be a step up safety wise. One thing that I would definitely change though, is not using cotton then shellacking it like was done during the war. I’d simply use kevlar or Nomex threads instead.
TR: The only thing I’ve ever used was a piece of a 4×4 and some large F clamps and a rubber mallet. I did make sure that I sprayed some LPS1 or breakfree CLP or similar lubricant down the splines before loading up on the clamps any.
