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A quick bit to help on doing photos for color matching….Specify the color temp of the lighting that you are using. That helps correct the color from what is seen on a monitor or photo.
Daylight is above 5000K
Cool white is 3100 to 4000K
Warm white is under 3000K
The cooler the color temp, the more yellowish the light is and that will change the color appearance.
BTW, I did find a copy of the DuPont specification book, listing the various DuPont color numbers for zinc chromate for prior to August 1943. Just need to figure out how to translate them to usable info.
John: At the bottom left of the posting window, below the Tags window, there is a check box that is labeled “Notify me….” If you check that box, on your initial post, I think it should give you an email for every post after that. Same if you are not the original poster, but adding content to a thread.
Craig
Bill: Got that info and have been trying to track down anything on the R-79 vibrator. I’ve had no luck thru all my normal sources. I may have to actually open up the one in my unit and figure out the internals on it. It’s a 7 pin unit with multiple possible pinouts.
Craig
Bill: I’m slowly working on a set of drawings and going to see if Sam will do a redline check against his known original one. The one I was making measurements off of, was a replica and had some obvious issues. Most are easy to correct, but one is requiring some hardware chasing that may force some changes with other parts.
I’ve got a photo of the lower mast entry fitting with some dimensions and will have that drawing with the package. Sean has had some upper mast fittings made, but wasn’t sure if he had any left. I dropped him an email a while back, but have not had a response yet. I’m having some connection troubles with my primary email client, and am having to send them thru a secondary method.
Bill: Power supply is on the table behind my desk. I’ll see if I can get some decent photos when I get up.
Craig
With some chasing of the F4RP12/B, it specs out as an AN3125-1, which now crosses to a F5000 bulb. Running all three numbers down, they’re pretty rare, but there are some on shelves in a couple of locations. I’m a little nervous about dropping notes for quotes on them, but that’s for next weeks chasing. The only place that had pricing on them, was 10$ each, and that was from more than 10 years ago.
Craig
Will start working on the drawings this week Matt. The only difference between the two boxes, is one a single output and the other is a dual output.
Craig
Matt: Is that the booster box for the cockpit light? Hangs just about the left ear on the back cockpit side frame? If so, there are two versions of it. I’ve got one sitting on my table ready to have drawings done. I can also do a schematic if you want it to be operable.
Craig
Sean: Count me in for one. I’ve got an acquaintance that came up with one of the fittings at the bottom of the mast and has given me the dimensions. It’s a stepped mushroom and is some sort of coated metal. Haven’t worked that out yet.
I finished making sketches this morning of all the components of the antenna reel. I’ve got to get them into CAD and start correcting them and bringing them to standard dimensions and materials. Whom ever executed this one, did so without much accuracy on some things and way too much on others.
For the ceramic cone on the rudder, I was thinking of doing them in a reverse lost wax process…3d print the mold and slip cast the part. I haven’t done any ceramic work sine I was in junior high, so been away from it for a long time.
Re: drag cones…. I have two here on the desk to copy. One is the black rudder/plastic style and the other is an acetate one. They are of different sizes, so I’ll draw up both. Neither has any kind of attachment hardware, so that would need to be sorted out as well. My thinking, is that I’ll come up with a small wire frame and sew up a nylon cone instead, like a tiny wind sock.
Craig
Bob: When you need parts, take the time to shop around a bit. You can often find the parts a lot cheaper elsewhere, but lead times may be a bit longer.
Jim: A thought… as we find these substitutions, maybe we should, as a group, put together a known interchange on part numbers that are no longer available, but have current substitutions.
Worth checking the drawing notes, as a couple of them, and I don’t remember which ones, listed a 10 series Stinson part number as “same as”.
Robert: The 62304 was a custom rod end. It uses an AN201-K4A bearing. That number, as well as it’s updated version, MS27641, are available.
For the RE3M6A, look at the MS21151 specification and check the measurements.
Wag Aero has the RE3H5’s in stock, but hold on to your nitro pills when you look at the price.
https://www.wagaero.com/re3h5-rod-end-bearing.html
Craig
Sam: Thanks for the info on your tail piece. Most of the mastheads on faster birds have been ceramic, so this was a little surprising. After years of searching, I did find the answer on how the radio connects to the long wire. There is a mushroom shaped fitting at the base of the mast that is steel of some sort, that the antenna lead from the radio, is jumpered to. The antenna wire simply passes thru this fitting, giving a surface contact and allowing the RF to pass to the wire. An acquaintance of mine that restores lots of old military radio gear, happened to post a photo of his RCA long wire system and there was that fitting. I’ve got the dimensions, so just need to draw it up and send him a copy for checking.
I’ve got a pretty good idea on how to slip mold the tail insulators, but need to get my hands on one for a bit and to create a pattern. Lanny has one over at the hangar, and I should be able to pull a pattern off if it.
Working on the antenna reel drawings right now, and correcting some hardware errors from the pattern unit that I am using. Drag cone drawings are next after that.
The IN-83 insulators for the antenna wire between the radio and the mast, have become very hard to find in any quantity. I think I’ve located a source for a current production bead that is extremely close in all dimensions and even color. I’ll probably drop them an order, as soon as I can verify the dimensions from the package of IN-83’s that I do have. I need about 600 for another aircraft project that takes the same ones. A package of 1000 pieces is relatively inexpensive, so we shall see.
